The bow thruster batteries now share charging from the 55amp alternator with the starter battery. There is a relay between the starter battery and the bow thruster batteries. I understand that there is a risk that the bow thruster will try to take power from the starter battery. As the rating of the relay is significantly less than the bow thruster this could cause the really to fail and cause a fire.
To prevent this a split charge diode can be used to replace the relay. This is what I planned to do. I was concerned as space there is limited. Also the diode needs to disperse heat and this would be impaired in the engine space. My solution has been to fit the diode at the bow thruster end of the charging circuit in the front locker with the batteries.
Taking voltages, there is a loss of 0.74v from the cable run from the engine space to the diode and a further loss of 0.79v across the diode, so a total loss of 1.5v.
Tuesday, 21 May 2013
Thursday, 2 May 2013
Further battery update
After much frustration fitted the 70 amp alternator warning light. I put the cable through when first fitting the second alternator. The fustration was first trying to get it to work when there was a 'gap' in the cable (intended but forgotten about!) then when there was no bulb in the new warning light.
Connected the shore battery charger to the bow thruster battery circuit. Unfortunately not neat but safe and out of sight.
Fitted the Sterling Advanced Regulator but no evidence from the SmartGauge of any effect. I'll investigate further when cruising after a night away using the domestic batteries.
Final outstanding task is to fit the Sterling Split Charge Diode, when it's received.
Connected the shore battery charger to the bow thruster battery circuit. Unfortunately not neat but safe and out of sight.
Fitted the Sterling Advanced Regulator but no evidence from the SmartGauge of any effect. I'll investigate further when cruising after a night away using the domestic batteries.
Final outstanding task is to fit the Sterling Split Charge Diode, when it's received.
Sunday, 28 April 2013
Front and back doors
When Ada was painted I asked that all the holes for the front and back door catches be filled and painted over. The catches were short cabin hooks. They pushed the doors away from the cabin sides and eventually wore away the paint.
I had some vague idea of using magnetic catches. This proved harder than I expected but today I fixed magnets to all doors and I'm very pleased with the result.
I eventually found rubber covered round magnets. Rubber covered to prevent damaging the paint where they strike. Off the boat they are very fierce but attached to the doors they apply just the right hold. The steel back doors strike and hold to the cabin sides. the magnets are pushed out by 4 washers behind them to prevent the doors hitting the back cover fixings. The front doors have a keeper fixed to the wood window frame and the magnets on the doors. the thickes of these is sufficient to prevent the handles hitting the glass of the front windows.
I had some vague idea of using magnetic catches. This proved harder than I expected but today I fixed magnets to all doors and I'm very pleased with the result.
 |
| Keeper on front window frame |
 |
| Magnet with spacer washer behind |
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| 14 mm gap, just enough to be clear of the cover studs |
Wednesday, 24 April 2013
Battery capacity update
Refitting the alternators in the reverse positions went very smoothly. I was concerned that I did not detect any output from the 55 amp alternator before taking it off. However, when refitted it in the primary position it worked perfectly.
The puzzle came as I could not detect any output from the 70 amp alternator in the secondary position. I've used an alternator in this position with the same cabling to charge the bow thruster batteries for 10+ years. After some investigation I found that fitting the warning light resulted in the alternator generating 14+ volts. So how have the bow thruster batteries been charging for the last 10+ years?!
So 3 outstanding tasks:
1. Fit warning light to 70 amp alternator.
2. Connect bow thruster batteries to shore charging cable.
3. Fit advanced alternator regulator to 70 amp alternator.
4. Fit split charge diode.
1. Wire to control panel already in place so need to order lamp holder and fix in place.
2. Currently cable is connected, as per instructions, to domestic batteries and I have no idea how to progress the task.
3. I've order from ebay a replacement regulator with the earth negative field wire already fitted. The wiring loom from my previous failed attempt will need modifying by shortening all the cables but should be a quick job.
4. A future task.
Overall a satisfying days' work.
The puzzle came as I could not detect any output from the 70 amp alternator in the secondary position. I've used an alternator in this position with the same cabling to charge the bow thruster batteries for 10+ years. After some investigation I found that fitting the warning light resulted in the alternator generating 14+ volts. So how have the bow thruster batteries been charging for the last 10+ years?!
So 3 outstanding tasks:
1. Fit warning light to 70 amp alternator.
2. Connect bow thruster batteries to shore charging cable.
3. Fit advanced alternator regulator to 70 amp alternator.
4. Fit split charge diode.
1. Wire to control panel already in place so need to order lamp holder and fix in place.
2. Currently cable is connected, as per instructions, to domestic batteries and I have no idea how to progress the task.
3. I've order from ebay a replacement regulator with the earth negative field wire already fitted. The wiring loom from my previous failed attempt will need modifying by shortening all the cables but should be a quick job.
4. A future task.
Overall a satisfying days' work.
Monday, 22 April 2013
Battery capacity
In 1997 Ada was fitted with a Lucas A127 55 amp alternator charging the domestic and starter batteries. A couple of years later when fitting the bow thruster I fitted a second alternator, also a Lucas A127 55 amp unit, to charge the bow thruster batteries. About the same time I bought a Sterling advanced alternator regulator but, although I modified the alternator to fit the -ve earth field wire, I did not fit it as there was no problem with the batteries keeping up with our use of 12v power.
With time we added more 12v equipment and began to have power capacity issues. When I got round to fitting the advanced alternator regulator it did not work. I have since realised that marine alternators have isolated returns so following the instructions and connecting the -ve of the advanced regulator to the alternator case does not make a working connection.
About this time we had a problem with the bearings of the domestic/starter alternator so I decided to replace it with a higher capacity alternator. I bought a Lucas A127 70 amp alternator and as the connections were different did some further research about marine alternators. (It was then that I realised my mistake when fitting the advanced regulator.) Fitting the new alternator was straight forward and marginally improved the battery capacity but there were still times when there was not enough battery power.
The original alternator was repaired and carried as a spare. Researching the replacement alternator I learnt that the A127 alternator case has 2 configurations left handed and right handed. As one fited alternator is LH and the other is RH I researched how to change from one to the other.
Latest idea is the realisation that it would be better using the 70 amp alternator to charge only the domestic batteries and to use the 55 amp alternator to charge the bow thruster and starter batteries. This invokes changing the handing of both alternators. Then moving the 55 amp alternator to the position of the original alternator and the 70 amp alternator to the auxcilary position. With the current cabling, the 55 amp alternator is charging domestic and includes a relay. The 70 amp alternator is charging the bow thruster.
All -ve connects are common so no changes to -ve cables. Disconnect the +ve cable from the domestic batteries to the relay. Connect the +ve cable of bow thruster batteries to the relay terminal formally connected to the domestic batteries. A new 10mm cable will be required. Connect the +ve terminal of the 70 amp alternator to the domestic batteries. A new 6mm cable will be required.
Finally, fit the advanced regulator to the 70 amp alternator. For about £10 I can purchase a replacement regulator with a -ve earth field wire already fitted saving modify the existing one.
The alternators are here at home. The major issue is, before taking off the 55 amp alternator I did not detect any output so may not be working. I've changed the handing and it's ready to refit and test. If it's not working I'll bring it home and replace the regulator and rectifier having already watched the online youtube training video! I'll change the handing of the 70 amp alternator when the 55 amp one is proven working as refitting the 70amp alternator to charge the domestic/starter batteries is the fall back position. When both are proven working I'll change the cabling. When that is done I'll change the 70 amp regulator, as this can be done without dismounting the alternator, and fit the advanced regulator.
Then the question will be, how long will it take to recharge the batteries to keep the deep freeze, fridge, satellite TV and inverter working!
Further thoughts now ... I will need to replace the relay with a split charge diode unit. This is to prevent the bow thruster drawing high amps, through 10mm connecting cables and the relay, from the starter battery if the bow thruster batteries are discharged. There is a fuses in the cable that should give protection but it's a bit crude.
With time we added more 12v equipment and began to have power capacity issues. When I got round to fitting the advanced alternator regulator it did not work. I have since realised that marine alternators have isolated returns so following the instructions and connecting the -ve of the advanced regulator to the alternator case does not make a working connection.
About this time we had a problem with the bearings of the domestic/starter alternator so I decided to replace it with a higher capacity alternator. I bought a Lucas A127 70 amp alternator and as the connections were different did some further research about marine alternators. (It was then that I realised my mistake when fitting the advanced regulator.) Fitting the new alternator was straight forward and marginally improved the battery capacity but there were still times when there was not enough battery power.
The original alternator was repaired and carried as a spare. Researching the replacement alternator I learnt that the A127 alternator case has 2 configurations left handed and right handed. As one fited alternator is LH and the other is RH I researched how to change from one to the other.
Latest idea is the realisation that it would be better using the 70 amp alternator to charge only the domestic batteries and to use the 55 amp alternator to charge the bow thruster and starter batteries. This invokes changing the handing of both alternators. Then moving the 55 amp alternator to the position of the original alternator and the 70 amp alternator to the auxcilary position. With the current cabling, the 55 amp alternator is charging domestic and includes a relay. The 70 amp alternator is charging the bow thruster.
All -ve connects are common so no changes to -ve cables. Disconnect the +ve cable from the domestic batteries to the relay. Connect the +ve cable of bow thruster batteries to the relay terminal formally connected to the domestic batteries. A new 10mm cable will be required. Connect the +ve terminal of the 70 amp alternator to the domestic batteries. A new 6mm cable will be required.
Finally, fit the advanced regulator to the 70 amp alternator. For about £10 I can purchase a replacement regulator with a -ve earth field wire already fitted saving modify the existing one.
The alternators are here at home. The major issue is, before taking off the 55 amp alternator I did not detect any output so may not be working. I've changed the handing and it's ready to refit and test. If it's not working I'll bring it home and replace the regulator and rectifier having already watched the online youtube training video! I'll change the handing of the 70 amp alternator when the 55 amp one is proven working as refitting the 70amp alternator to charge the domestic/starter batteries is the fall back position. When both are proven working I'll change the cabling. When that is done I'll change the 70 amp regulator, as this can be done without dismounting the alternator, and fit the advanced regulator.
Then the question will be, how long will it take to recharge the batteries to keep the deep freeze, fridge, satellite TV and inverter working!
Further thoughts now ... I will need to replace the relay with a split charge diode unit. This is to prevent the bow thruster drawing high amps, through 10mm connecting cables and the relay, from the starter battery if the bow thruster batteries are discharged. There is a fuses in the cable that should give protection but it's a bit crude.
Sunday, 10 March 2013
LED Lighting
After what seems years of intention I eventually bought and fitted 2 trial LEDs, cool white 180 Lumens from Bedazzled. The issue was would there be sufficient light to read by and could I fit them into the existing light fittings of which I have 2 types. The oldest, bought from a chandlery, have bayonet bulbs, and the newer from Screwfix, have G4 halogen bulbs, of which there are 2 types.
By taking out the reflectors, the 30.5mm LED units fit into the Screwfix fittings and, although we were not staying overnight, the illumination seems sufficient for reading. Advice from a friend is to use warm white as the closest to current lighting. However, it is only a matter of getting used to cool white.
I've now ordered LEDs for the remaining lights. I could have ordered complete units to replace the oldest light fittings but they seemed expensive. Screwfix no longer offer the units I previously bought and buying units with a G4 bulb seemed wasteful. However, searching the internet, buying new units fitted with G4 bulbs and removing these to fit LEDs saved about £5 a unit. As I need 5 units that saves £25 in what is an expensive upgraded.
The next problem is fitting the new units. The holes cut in the deck head are too big. I fitted the previous ones by cutting a wooden ring using 2 blades fitted to a hole cutter. As they were to fit in what had previously been cut with the large hole saw blade, they were a very loose fit and a fiddle to fix in place. I have a couple of weeks to think up a better solution as I plan to replace the oldest units while cruising over the Easter fortnight. Fitting the LEDs in the existing newer units is a couple of minutes per unit and will be done before we set out.
By taking out the reflectors, the 30.5mm LED units fit into the Screwfix fittings and, although we were not staying overnight, the illumination seems sufficient for reading. Advice from a friend is to use warm white as the closest to current lighting. However, it is only a matter of getting used to cool white.
I've now ordered LEDs for the remaining lights. I could have ordered complete units to replace the oldest light fittings but they seemed expensive. Screwfix no longer offer the units I previously bought and buying units with a G4 bulb seemed wasteful. However, searching the internet, buying new units fitted with G4 bulbs and removing these to fit LEDs saved about £5 a unit. As I need 5 units that saves £25 in what is an expensive upgraded.
The next problem is fitting the new units. The holes cut in the deck head are too big. I fitted the previous ones by cutting a wooden ring using 2 blades fitted to a hole cutter. As they were to fit in what had previously been cut with the large hole saw blade, they were a very loose fit and a fiddle to fix in place. I have a couple of weeks to think up a better solution as I plan to replace the oldest units while cruising over the Easter fortnight. Fitting the LEDs in the existing newer units is a couple of minutes per unit and will be done before we set out.
Friday, 30 November 2012
Winterising
With a period of cold weather forecast, we stopped off at the boat on our way to Bromagrove to drain the tank and take out the board with the pump and accumulator on. Now need to plan Christmas shopping in Worcester ... free parking ... and other winter tasks ... change oil, oil and fuel filters and fan belts. Other over winter jobs include refitting the studs broken when being removed for painting and fitting the magnetic door catches.
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